Travel: Cycling the Alpe d'Huez - Travel - Lifestyle - getreading on Astini News
I'm not fan of the Sound of Music but I think I know now why those hills made Julie Andrews want to sing, writes Beverley Woolford.
OK, so this was France not Austria and I'm tone deaf, but summer in the Alps is truly glorious. Brilliant blue skies, breathtaking panoramas, views that change with the light and the soft clunking of cow bells.
The destination was Alpe d'Huez, 60km from Grenoble and just a short hop from the Italian border.
With a few stops to sample the delights of French A-route rest facilities (hand sanitiser and a sense of adventure compulsory) we made the journey from port to door in just over nine hours.
Opting to shell out 70 euros either way in tolls rewarded us with clear, fast roads with minimal traffic and disruption.
Of course those in not such a hurry will find plenty of places for a spot of lunch or an overnight stay.
Arras and Troyes come highly recommended or you could even plan your trip via booze and condiments – Champagne, Dijon and on to Chateau Neuf.
Alpe d'Huez is the hub of the Grandes Rousses Massif.
From the top station, Pic Blanc (3,330m), on a clear day a fifth of France can be seen. Alpe d'Huez is also known as "L'isle au Soleil" (Island of the Sun) as most slopes face south and the town boasts an average of 300 days of sunshine a year.
A thriving ski resort in the winter, summers in Alpe d'Huez are all about two wheels, and for the road racers, there is the challenge of the infamous 21 hairpin bends.
This year, after a two-year break, the Tour de France returned to Alpe d'Huez. It is described as the most unrelenting summit finish on the Tour and thousands flocked to the narrow ribbon of road to cheer on their heroes.
Less spectacular but no less impressive are the Lycra-clad amateurs who struggle up those terrifying turns, each marked with a plaque commemorating former winners of the Tour stage.
During the summer months they can be spotted each day proudly taking turns to have their picture taken under the sign marking the official finish line. Every Thursday the town also hosts a timed run for those after a more competitive challenge.
In fact, when the skiing comes to an end the resort is home to an almost non-stop succession of extreme sport challenges.
La Marmotte is a one-day event for amateur cyclists. A gruelling 174km ride with 5,180m of climbing taking in the Col du Glandon, Col du Telegraphe and Col Du Galibier and finishing with those notorious bends.
Bored of two wheels? Try the Alpe d'Huez Triathlon. The swimming takes place in the crystalline waters of the Lac du Verney, accessible only during the triathlon. The bike race takes in two mountain passes – the Alpe du Grand Serre and the Col d'Ornon – before heading back to those bends. The run is through the town itself.
We were there for the Megavalanche, an epic mountain bike endurance event which sees 2,000 riders bouncing 32km down the rocks from the glacier of Pic Blanc to lake at Allemont.
Open to professional and amateur riders it is a bone-crunching, bike-mangling challenge of skill, fitness and nerve.
Not as hectic as a week peak ski season or as manic as when the Tour arrives, during Mega week the quiet charms of Alp D'Huez are easy to appreciate.
Not all lifts are open but the queues for the main DMC gondola rarely felt busy. As a spectator and a pedestrian I was able to find a spot by the serene and unbelievably blue Lac Blanc (accessible from the second DMC gondola station) where I could be left unbothered for hours.
Of course leaving the world behind is not advisable for amateur hikers so my walking adventures were never more ambitious than a stroll from the first gondola station.
Bikers however have a wealth of routes to choose from and this time of year will rarely find themselves alone.
The 'expert' runs of the Mega course require a cable car to Pic Blanc although there are less hair-raising cross country and enduro trails across the resort.
A bike park (or snowboard park, depending on the season) sits at the bottom of the hill offering jumps and seesaws and a respite from the punishing slopes.
I would recommend pre-ordering a VISALP pass.
In the summer season 32 euros will get you seven day access to all the resort's lifts, gondolas and cable cars as well as the outdoor pool, ice rink, crazy golf course and toboggan run, the town's museum and sports centre.
When it comes to nightlife, though, don't expect the usual peak season ski resort vibe. Lunch certainly seemed to be the busiest part of the day with cafes, bars and restaurants in good supply.
The evenings certainly were a little more subdued with a few clubs pumping out cheesy Euro pop till the early hours.
Restaurants that would otherwise be full to capacity in winter were, however, quiet and welcoming serving a mixture of staples (pizza, pasta, steak) and traditional Alpine fare (fondue, raclette, tartiflette).
One bar that welcomed the mountain bike crowd with open arms was L'Etalon on Avenue des Juex.
The smell of the daily barbecue drew them in but it was the warm welcome, friendly atmosphere, the cocktails and rum that made them stay. Certainly worth a visit and don't forget to say hello to the pirate.
Factfile:
- Beverley travelled from Dover to Calais with P&O Ferries.
- P&O offers up to 46 sailings a day. Crossing time is 90 minutes and prices start from £35. Visit www.poferries.com or call 08716 64 20 20.
- For resort information visit www.alpedhuez.com
- For race details visit www.avalanchecup.com
